The World of Bespoke of
The Tailoring house of ClaranceWong has become recognized as one of the best tailoring houses in Shanghai. We offer both bespoke tailoring and Made to Measure. CWKIRIN grew the foundation’s house style from London Cut together with Naples’ tailoring traditions using the finest selected fabrics.
CWKIRIN cuts demonstrates easy to wear with a more fluid style that is regarded as modern, delicate, elegant with self-confidence.
ClaranceWong’s team comprises the country’s best practitioners from cutting to tailoring to ensure a continuity of precision and pride.
The exacting particulars of our house style such as sophisticated back silhouette cutting together with ship-shaped pocket have earned them the reputations as unique and iconic.
MADE ONLY BY HAND FOR THOSE WHO VALUE PERFECTION.
“Respecting the old-good-days tailoring.
And yet, creating new style with our own craftsmanship”
Before Kirin became a custom tailor,
he studied fashion design at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo.
After graduation, he worked at Ichibankan in Ginza. At that time there were 60 tailors serving Ichibankan in Tokyo. It can be said to be the largest in Japan. One of the most well-known customized old shops.
After several years of thorough study and production study in 2004.
He decided to become an independent craftsman and began to provide tailoring services and hemming his own brand “Kirin-Tailors” in 2014
In 2019, He came to Shanghai to expand to the Chinese market and met ClaranceWong which was one of the best tailoring houses in China.
AN ICONIC SOFT JAPANESE TAILORING
SIGNATURE STYLE
The Processing of the Waistline is an obvious feature
On the basis of showing the sense of lines, according to the age, gender, height, and body type, preference of the client and the preferences of the client the balance of the clothes and the design of other details will be adjusted such as the shoulder width, the allowance control of the clothes, and the waist. While shaping the waist shape by using the waist on both sides, will also create a sense of expansion at the end of the suit. which will strengthen the visual effect of the waist without changing the waist margin.
This is difficult to achieve with the common six-piece tailoring. Compared to modern ready-to-wear suits.
It's a little surprising, foreign colleagues often feel like Kirin’s house style is adapted from the Italian style.
In fact, custom education in Japan follows the basic British logic, and smooth and clean lines are a must.
Faced with the changes in modern life and usage habits, Kirin’s idea is to have a "very" outline and a "soft" structure.
On the premise that the clients have no special body shape or requirements, the default practice is to have no shoulder pads.
In order to make the clothes look stiff and soft, I’m very concerned about the types and combinations of linings.
Kirin will adjust them according to the season and fabric conditions. There are also examples of remade after fitting because the combination of linings is not ideal.
Within the scope of client satisfaction, achieving the best possible results is always his goal.
Kirin makes two of types suits that are different and special compared to other tailors.
WHICH IS A FOUR PIECE CUT AND A SIX PIECE CUT
Four-piece tailoring is the most primitive cutting method for suits starting from Savile Street in the UK, custom suits are made in this way.
The four-piece tailoring is in a space, not on a line to draw the waist. The curve of the waist will have a feeling of wrapping the body, which can emphasize the arc of the side. Reflects the charm of classic tailoring.
The six-piece type was originally designed for ease of assembly and appeared in response to the requirement for mass production of ready-made garments.
After Tommy Nutter created his own style with six-piece tailoring in the 1970s, this approach became popular among British tailors.
The Cutting method of the ‘back curl’
The cutting method of the back curl comes from the earliest short coat lounge suit. Which are a practice of slightly shorter back coat length and back curl.
In different production systems, some people may think that this method of clothes curls up and the length of the back clothes is short.
In fact, this was a more mainstream and classic way of processing in the 1910s and 1930s.
Kirin’s tailoring of the waistline is to fit the body behind the back and then adjust the appropriate margin between the hem the suture in the center of the back and the suture on the waist.
In this way, you can make arm movements such as raising your hand and stretching forward. At that time, the clothes still maintain a beautiful waistline.
Regular tailored suits will have issue of PULLING and tugging
when the arms are raised
Other Regular Tailored Suits with a vertical back piece will have obvious tugging on the side in the dynamic state when the arms are raised. UNCOMFORTABLE!
With KIRIN’S HOUSE STYLE proper post-warping treatment
when the hand is raised, the space of the post-warping naturally sticks to the hips, and the wrinkles on the back and sides are suppressed this is the power of KIRIN’s Housestyle.
Kirin feels that there is a big difference between customers in Japan and Singapore. When Japanese customers place an order, they will leave many details to the tailor to decide while mostly Singaporean customers have more requirements for details. Just like some of the above explorations on lining and structure, many Singapore customers are very interested in this, and they are willing to understand the reasons.
It is also a brand new experience for Kirin and requires him to adopt some of the changes to learn how to express his cut to Singaporean Clients.
The Process of
MS X CWKIRIN
Held together by basting threads, major adjustments are made on the fitting garment prior to cutting the actual suit fabric.
The investment of time and patience when clients return again with the pleasure of wearing clothes that fit them like a glove.
Made by hand by experienced CWKIRIN You will have to go through 1 to 2 fittings where your measurements will be taken and the suit will be altered until if fits you like a glove.
The Crucial Process of the ‘
BASTE FITTING’
It is called the basted fitting because, at this point, the suit is temporarily stitched together with white basting thread. Although measurements had previously been taken, the basted fitting will be the first time you actually get to try on your Bespoke Suit.
If you have ever purchased a genuinely bespoke garment, you have likely enjoyed this magical experience where your suit begins to take shape.
Our Specialist will then ask what is your desired fit and we will fine-tune the jacket and trousers, so it drapes perfectly over your body. No shortcuts are taken, and every inch of your body will be examined so that your garment won’t require any alterations after it’s done up.
Now that you can visualize the item on your body, you’ll have the chance to make changes to it. Since basting thread is temporary, the suit can be completely disassembled so the tailor can alter the look if you decide you’re not a fan of the width of the lapel, the vent you chose, or any other aspect you’re unhappy with.
CANVAS STITCH
BY HAND.
Our Bespoke suits are fully canvassed which blend of wool and horsehair is stitched in between the lining and suit fabric, providing support for the suit and making it drape better.
Fully Canvassed Stitching by hand step by step to achieve a durability in our suit like no other
PATTERN DRAWN BY HAND
Our Bespoke suits are fully drawn by hand by our Masters. Each step by step cut and stitch only by hand with no shortcuts.
THE HUMAN
HAND ONLY.
MADE only by hand our details are focus on what a human hand can make.
From handmade lapel-hole to pic stitching only done by hand.
We date back to how a bespoke suit should be made in the century.
Just the perfection you are looking for with the imperfections you appreciate.
This is bespoke. Something Bespoken,
made for you, just for you.
Handmade Signature Made Suits x CWKirin Milanese Lapel Hole
other fully handmade details:
A Fabric for every
OCCASION.
A light Grey wool suit for the boardroom. A Casual linen sports jacket for the fridays. A black smoking tuxedo jacket for your cocktail parties and black tie events. For every occasion there is the perfect choice of cloth.
View your perfect suit today here
THE PRIVATE PLEASURE OF
BESPOKE LININGS.
There’s something special about choosing the lining of a jacket or coat. Often only the wearer knows its there, others may catch a glimpse of colour, a hint of pattern, a suggestion of something more unusual.
“Your Suit your Decisions, you create your wearable piece of art.”
With a passion for tailoring, a deep understanding of fabric, and an eye for detail we are proud to have one of the showrooms ready for our clients supported by Japanese tailors with years of experience in the trade.
Together, We make sure only the most quality garments leave our shop.
VISIT US TODAY.